The other morning I braved the crowds and appalling service at the Coffee Temple to get my fix of caffeine. Since then thank God I’ve found some far more appealing spots for my post sunrise injections. Anyway I’m sitting on the kind of raised platform at the entrance with a cool Swedish woman shooting the breeze and this swarthy mid 50s local fella pulls up in a mad panic on his moped, “hello, hello, hello” he keeps shouting from the street. Trying to get the attention of the British owner. I’m thinking, “does he have the caffeine addiction too like the rest if us sleepy tourists?” Nope. Owner appears in his bloochy pants and the man implores “10,0000, 10,000” pointing down to his moped where the driver’s feet usually rest and I spot this gigantic fish just lying there. The owner does his by now perfected haggle. “No, no, no and waddles away’ he is called back again”Fresh fish, fresh fish, 8,000?” Still doesn’t bite. So the fisherman jumps back on the bike and tears off down the cliff to the next restaurant to sell his morning catch. No rooting through the plastic covered fish in supermarket aisles or waiting on refrigerated deliveries from fish gutting houses – That’s how it’s done in Varkala – fresh fish just caught and still warm!