I’m finally slowing down after the hectic sightseeing up north. A lot has changed in Varkala since last year. A lot less tourists because of currency issues. Seemingly everyone is tussling over rooms in Sri Lanka. I’m back at my hotel near the ashram where I meditate and practise yoga twice a day..Such bliss. Sunsets are as exquisite as ever.
No words or images can properly describe the pure majesty of taking my morning tea to the edge of the North Cliff today to behold the waves rolling dominoe-like before me in perfect calmness.
I took a notion to rent a bike this morning after a chat with Jimmy from the, wait for it…. Love Shore Art House! I was wandering around the back lanes after yoga yesterday where lots of Homestay houses are. I passed this Love Shack and Jimmy a little black dude beckoned me inside (trying to hock a room to me) I asked him where the art was? So he gave me the grand tour. Then showed me his little altar to Jesus at the side of his reception desk and proudly affirmed he was catholic. He said he’d arrange a bike for me for the equivalent of €1.40 for the day – not bad. So I went back there this morning and a fella in a sleeping bag woke up and told me to go across the road – so I half killed myself cycling up and down back lanes – Kappil Beach is about 10km from Varkala. Not many tourists go there which is nuts as it is so near and so deserted and long long long with a lake on the opposite side plus a very welcome ice cream van! I swam in a couple of beaches along the way. This one being my favourite. 
So amazing to have this beach all to myself. Got back on my rothar and pressed on along the main road asking directions from Indian bikers in long skirts and auto rickshaw drivers in floral shirts. The houses are so colourful and a few temples to boot.
Also some massive villas. Stopped off on another beach called something unpronounceable beginning with B! There was a surfing competition on with Indian kids from all over India, some of them as young as 8 years old riding those fab Arabian waves. Couldn’t resist another dip there. Think it was called Ash’s surf school, Edava when I cycled away. By the time I got to Kappil Beach it was scorching but a gorgeous cycle and really relaxing on the road. No one speeds like mad although they alarmingly drive on either side of the road. Doesn’t seem to matter. You are never surprised as they honk and beep each other in warning. I cycled back through Edava and down the Ice Cool Road! Back towards my beloved Odayam Beach for a swift palak paneer lunch at the Palm Tree before my pre-yoga siesta. Not a bad old life here in Varkala.
The other morning I braved the crowds and appalling service at the Coffee Temple to get my fix of caffeine. Since then thank God I’ve found some far more appealing spots for my post sunrise injections. Anyway I’m sitting on the kind of raised platform at the entrance with a cool Swedish woman shooting the breeze and this swarthy mid 50s local fella pulls up in a mad panic on his moped, “hello, hello, hello” he keeps shouting from the street. Trying to get the attention of the British owner. I’m thinking, “does he have the caffeine addiction too like the rest if us sleepy tourists?” Nope. Owner appears in his bloochy pants and the man implores “10,0000, 10,000” pointing down to his moped where the driver’s feet usually rest and I spot this gigantic fish just lying there. The owner does his by now perfected haggle. “No, no, no and waddles away’ he is called back again”Fresh fish, fresh fish, 8,000?” Still doesn’t bite. So the fisherman jumps back on the bike and tears off down the cliff to the next restaurant to sell his morning catch. No rooting through the plastic covered fish in supermarket aisles or waiting on refrigerated deliveries from fish gutting houses – That’s how it’s done in Varkala – fresh fish just caught and still warm!
Last night a bunch of are at God’s Own Kitchen and were served bizarre tasting mojitos (but mojitos all the same!) Nicole and I shared this big baby – without doubt the most divine fish I’ve ever tasted. Varkala is full of culinary delights. 
amynomad 